This mod will be done to the routing of the stock shifter cable. Under normal conditions the adjustment to the shifter cable can be made at the thumb lever or the threaded bushing located by the clutch lever. But, over a long period of time the shifter cable will stretch and once all the adjustment has been run out on the previous mentioned locations it will become necessary to loosen the bolt/nut assembly. Also, if the transmission is removed completely from the scooter for routine maintenance it will become necessary to readjust the bolt/nut assembly. This is where the trouble comes in. The bolt/nut assembly is located on the end of the shifter cable and is used as a clamp to keep the correct tension. The problem comes in with the location of this adjustment. It is located on the bottom just behind the front spacer of the transmission. To access it you must do it from below with limited space to get tools in. This guide will detail a modification that will bring the adjustment of the bolt/nut assembly out front, where it is easy to access and make proper adjustments.
- Channel lock pliers
- 10mm socket and ratchet/10mm open end wrench
- Phillips screwdriver
- Paint marker (optional)
- Heat shrink tube and lighter (optional)
- 7/32 drill bit
Remove the pulleyEdit
First, it will be necessary to loosen the tension of the large main drive belt. The bolt used for adjustment is located below the deck. Take the paint marker and mark a flat on this bolt. Use the phillips screwdriver to unloosen this bolt until the tension on the main drive belt is loose enough to remove the belt from the rear wheel pulley. Be sure to count the number of full revolutions using the mark made previously and record for later use. This will allow for the correct amount of tension when returning the installation to normal. Once the belt has been removed from the rear wheel pulley, remove the plastic fender and the tranny can now be moved forward gently to access the bolt/nut assembly. Use the Channel lock pliers and 10mm socket and ratchet to loosen the bolt/nut assembly. After loosening, the tiny "narp" (crimped piece on the end of the shifter cable) will need to be removed so the cable can be pulled out of the bolt/nut assembly. Completely remove the cable from around the pulley and let it rest to the side.
Drilling out the cable pathEdit
Put the 7/32 drill bit in the drill and prepare to drill the new hole for the flexible metal elbow. There are two holes located on the bottom of the tranny plate that are connected together by a small gap. There is a large hole and a small hole. The small hole is the one that will be needed to drill for the flexible metal elbow. Gently pull the tranny forward giving better access to hole and drill the 7/32 diameter hole.
Refitting the shifter cableEdit
Once the hole has been drilled, take the shifter cable and route it through the 7/32 hole, around the pulley and through the threaded bushing. Take the bolt/nut assembly and slide it gently over the shifter cable being careful not to fray the end of the shifter cable. The next step might require the use of two people to perform efficiently. Pull the shifter cable hand tight and tighten the bolt/nut assembly. Once it is tight slip a small piece of heat shrink tube over the end of the shifter cable and use the lighter to shrink it firmly onto the shifter cable. Now, if the cable is long enough, slide the end through the other tranny plate keeping it from interfering with the first gear belt. Replace the large main drive belt on the rear wheel pulley being sure to align the teeth of the belt to the teeth of the pulley. Lastly, tighten the belt tension bolt the number of turns recorded earlier to achieve the correct belt tension.
Adjusting the new pulleyEdit
Readjustment of the shifter cable will be necessary to prevent the second gear from slipping during normal operation. First, attempt to adjust the shifter cable at the thumb shifter by screwing out the adjustment. If this does not achieve the proper tension return it to the fully inward position. Unscrew the threaded bushing on the bottom of the tranny plate a full revolution and retest. If more adjustment is still needed go back to the thumb lever adjustment. Repeat this process until the proper tension is achieved. Once finished, replace the plastic fender to the scooter.